A practical garden path with a great look. A paved path in the garden not only makes a good impression. Above all, it allows you to cross the garden in any weather. The shoes always remain clean and no dirt is carried into the house. Creating a DIY garden path is once a project for which you should plan a Saturday. After that it is ready for decades and defies all seasons, wind and weather. Read in this text everything you need to know about creating a garden path.

Types of garden paths
A basic distinction is made between two types of garden path:

Piled garden paths
Paved garden paths
Piled garden paths can be made very quickly and cheaply. They simply consist of a thick layer of gravel or bark mulch. This type has the advantage that the soil is not compacted and can be removed quickly and easily. However, they are not very attractive visually and are not durable either. Filled garden paths are constantly growing through. They can be maintained only in laborious manual work.

Paved garden paths, on the other hand, are not only beautifully designed and make a professional impression. They are also very durable and usually do not need to be renewed.

Paved garden paths
There are four types of paving to choose from for those willing to build:

Natural stone paving
brick pavement
concrete block paving
Concrete block paving with local formwork
The production of a DIY garden path is identical for the first three pavement types. The concrete paving stones with local formwork are somewhat longer in production. However, they are visually very interesting and particularly easy to build.

Structure
Construction of paved garden paths

A paved path is a construction project like any other.

The path consists of:

Substructure with drainage and insulation
foundation layer
sand layer
paving stone top layer
lateral support
The substructure keeps the foundation frost-free and dry. The insulation ensures that no duckweeds can form under the path. Rainwater is discharged laterally through the open-pored structure of the foundation layer. The foundation, consisting of antifreeze gravel or gravel, supports the upper layers, consists of sand layer and top layer. The layer of sand creates a flat, somewhat flexible surface. The paving stones are laid exactly on top of it.

DIY garden path instructions
Garden path made of paving stones – step by step

A garden path is a construction project like any other. It requires careful planning and implementation to achieve a lasting, beautiful and efficient result. Read here step by step how your garden path made of paving stones becomes a success.

You need to lay plaster in your garden:

0,3 m³ gravel per meter garden path
0,1 m³ sand per meter garden path
cobblestones
paving foil
wheelbarrow
flat spade
Bucket or mini excavator
broom
approx. 1 bucket of quartz sand per 2 metres of way
Roof battens, cord and earth colour

1. planning

Carefully plan the course and width of your garden path. Think also of connections for junctions that you may want to make later. Space in a garden is always limited. So don’t build a “motorway” – but a path that is beautiful and functional, but as narrow as possible.

A path in the garden is particularly attractive if it is curved. If the size of your garden allows such a course, then test it. Take a photo of your garden and draw in different gradients until you find the most beautiful and practical profile.

You can use the following guidelines for the width:

Away from the street to the house entrance: 1.20 – 1.50 meters
Path to the terrace or to the garden house: 0.8 metres
Path to compost heap or flower bed: 0.4 meters
The road to the street is the most frequently used. It is also used to transport all the furniture that has to enter the house. Therefore this way should be wide and straight. A path to the terrace or garden house should be wide enough for two people to walk next to each other. The path to the compost heap, the flower bed or other less frequently visited places in the garden can therefore be very narrow.

Another measure is the distance to hedges, walls, woods or border fences. With approx. 30 cm you have enough freedom of movement to pass the path comfortably.

2. the string scaffold

The planning is finished, now it is to be built. A string scaffold will be built along the planned path. Start with one side first. Then measure the width and place the piles opposite each other. The string scaffold marks the exact course of the path. The height of the string also determines the upper edge of the pavement. The string can be set slightly higher. However, it should always be straight or parallel to the floor profile. Spray the course with earth paint along the cord.

3. excavation

First the grass hub is removed. To do this, remove the hub along the width of the path plus a width of approx. 20 cm. A depth of 50 cm is required to provide the necessary frost resistance. Frost can quickly destroy a garden path, then the laborious laying of the pavement was completely in vain. You can prevent this by observing the minimum depths when excavating. Depending on the length of the garden path, a mini excavator can be helpful here.

Level 4. pit

It is advisable to level the pit with a rammer. This makes the ground firm and stable.

5. foiling

Now the antifreeze film is laid out. The overlap of the individual sheets should be at least 30 cm, ideally 50 cm.

6. set limit

Paving stones need a lateral support so that they do not slip away over time. For this purpose, retailers offer low kerbs or L-stones. They are set before the gravel bed is laid out. However, there are also limitations in the form of plastic angles. These are only set once the gravel and sand beds have been laid. This makes laying the paving much easier.

7. laying the gravel bed

Loose, binder-free antifreeze gravel or gravel is used as foundation material. Concrete is unsuitable as it would be very difficult to dismantle. If the plans for the property change, the gravel can simply be dredged away again. The minimum thickness is 10 cm, the optimum is approx. 30 cm. The gravel bed is evenly distributed and then also compacted with a rammer or vibrating plate.

A gradient of approx. 2° should be created along the path so that rainwater can run off. For this you can orientate yourself on the cord framework. A gradient of 2° means a drop in the ground profile from 2 metres to 100 metres in length – or from 2 cm per metre of garden path. If you want to work with plastic brackets for lateral support, the installation of the elements is the last step of the process.

8. lay sand bed

On the gravel bed comes a sand bed of approx. 10 cm thickness. It gives the base layer a straight, clean finish and makes it ready to receive the paving stones.

9. Laying stones

The stones are laid dry butt by butt. When laying, make sure that you do not form any cross joints. Penetrating water and vibrations caused by walking will make it easier to loosen the stones. Make sure that the top layer is absolutely level. With a rubber hammer you can lower the paving stones a little. Here you have to lay the paving very correctly, otherwise you will install tripping hazards.

10. sanding in

The spaces between the paving stones are filled with fine quartz sand. The sand is first distributed and then swept into the joints. If rain weather is announced, you should leave the sand on the paving stone garden path for a few days. The rain will then ensure that the quartz sand is washed into your DIY garden path. The excess quartz sand is then swept away. You can also flush the sand with a garden hose.

Maintaining the garden path
A paved path weathered with time. Dust and moss settled on it. These can be removed very well with a high pressure cleaner. However, usually the sand filling is rinsed out of the joints. If you want to give your paved way a thorough cleaning, you calculate the following sanding again with one

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